Ask The Experts

Although we are best-known for our Brit Guide books and website, we contribute to a wide range of media on a regular basis and are always keen to write for new sources, both in the US and UK. See below for examples of our work, both individually and together, then look up the Our Travels section to see if we have been somewhere that is on your features list.

Coming in May 2009: The Hidden Magic of Walt Disney World by Susan Veness

Allow the Hidden Magic of Walt Disney World to be your guide on a journey around the Walt Disney World theme parks, helping you get maximum appreciation for your touring time while seeing everything through wide-open eyes. There is so much more than the obvious large-scale features, and the details supporting much of what you will see are as fascinating as the attractions themselves.

With all things Disney, there is always a fundamental story to every element of every park. Walt was a master storyteller, after all, and these are not just rides and shows, they are living tributes to the people Walt employed to make his dreams come true. Each hidden gem has its own enthralling reason for why it is where it is and how it came into being.

Additionally, there are a whole series of special effects and clever visual artistry which would be a shame to miss, but are, indeed, overlooked by most visitors. The multi-layered creativity of Main Street USA in the Magic Kingdom, Epcot’s harmonious blending of Scientific Law and nature’s gentle flow, the skillful transitions from one land to another, all serve to highlight the way Disney’s Imagineers present and all-encompassing story.

Not only do the stories, Fascinating Facts, Imagine That commentary, and details to watch out for provide a great way of passing time in the typically long queues, they also help to bring the attractions further to life, with a genuine sense of the creative thinking and far-reaching imagination that set them up in the first place.

Look for it in bookstores and on Amazon.com in 2009

Orlando Attractions Magazine
Apr/May 2008

Spaceship Earth Evolves
By Susan Veness

OVERSEAS PROPERTY TV MAGAZINE
February 2008 (excerpt)

By Simon Veness

Andy and Sue Wheatley are the perfect example of how to buy a holiday villa in Florida, and they have a beautiful four-bedroom, two-bath vacation home in Kissimmee to prove it.

However, just don’t ask them to explain all the benefits of staying in a holiday home – as they never thought to give it a try themselves before they bought one!

No-one can fault their shrewd and careful buying strategy after deciding Central Florida was the place for them to invest their property-buying acumen; but it is definitely an oddity – to say the least! – that they hadn’t actually stayed in this hugely popular accommodation style beforehand.

Anyone who has read Andy’s series of blogs on the long-running saga of their purchase – both here in Overseas Property TV Magazine and on their website, www.execvilla.com – will be well aware of how carefully he and Sue weighed up the market, how convoluted the buying process can be, and how rewarding it is finally to have your own property in Holiday Central.

As Andy freely admits: “We had only ever stayed in villa-type accommodations at Center Parcs, so we didn’t really understand the benefits of a holiday villa. Thankfully, that doesn’t seem to have stopped us from getting the right idea!”

In fact, it was a long and tortuous route all round that led the Nottingham couple to their eye-catching second home in the Tuscany sub-division of Kissimmee, just a short drive from Walt Disney World.

Both Andy and Sue had visited Florida individually, in 1989 and 1993 respectively, but it took a visit with friends to Disneyland Paris in 1999 to spark any real interest in the Sunshine State, and, even then, it was still a quantum leap from thinking of buying property there.

Sue recalls: “It was just a standard package holiday with Airtours, staying in a hotel, and our accommodation was moved at the last minute from the Wyndham to the Doubletree near Universal Studios. But we just had such a lovely time – although there was very little relaxing done!”

Orlando Attractions Magazine, Issue 2
Feb/Mar 2008

The Simpsons Invade Universal
By Simon Veness

Great Lakes North America 2008

Michigan excerpt by Susan from the GLNA08 publication for Essentially America magazine (published November 2007):

Pioneering Country

Nestled against 4 of the 5 great lakes, Michigan’s spirit of year-round adventure springs from a long history of lumber-jacking, fishing and farming.

With the longest freshwater shoreline in the world, the distinctive mitten-shaped Lower Peninsula rests like a hand upon water while the Upper Peninsula resembles a deer running west, hinting at one of the state’s popular autumn pastimes.

The heart of its pioneering ancestry beats as strongly as ever in thriving national parks, home-town festivals and names such as Bad Axe and Grind Stone City.

The 10 million residents are known as Michiganders
Michigan’s name comes from the Indian word ‘meicigama’, meaning ‘great water’. The state covers 79,610sq miles.
The state’s nickname is The Wolverine State. Ohioans branded Michigan ‘bloodthirsty wolverines’ in a dispute over territory, while Native Americans referred to ‘wolverine-like gluttonousness’ as settlers took over native land.
Famous Michiganders include Henry Ford (Greenfield Township), Charles Lindbergh (Detroit) and music stars Stevie Wonder (Saginaw), Diana Ross (Detroit) and Madonna (Bay City).

Rev Up for The Motor City

DETROIT honours its automotive heritage at Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, a dynamic time-capsule of American industry, featuring exhibits as varied as the chair Abraham Lincoln sat in that fateful night in 1865 to full-size locomotives, a world-class automobile collection and the only remaining prototype Dymaxion House. Neighbouring Greenfield Village is filled with original buildings such as Thomas Edison’s Menlo Park (where the light bulb was invented), the Wright brothers’ family home, working farms and craft shops. Offering an in-depth look into automotive history, a 90-minute Ford Rouge Factory Tour begins on the grounds at Henry Ford, ending at the Ford F-150 Final Assembly building.

Situated on the banks of the Detroit River, the Renaissance Centre reflects miles of city sprawl in seven mirror-finished towers. Take a free one-hour tour, offered 4 times daily Mon-Sat, including an outdoor glass-elevator ride to the 72^nd floor for a 30-mile view to the horizon. Hop aboard the People Mover for a more down-to-earth tour through the financial district. Favoured for its Greek restaurants, bars and casinos, nearby Greektown is a popular destination after a sporting event at Comerica Park or the Joe Lewis Arena, or a show at the ornate Fox Theatre.

Three miles away, Motown Historical Museum is the birthplace of the Motown Sound, paying tribute to the impact which artists such as Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and Smokey Robinson had on the evolution of music. Tour Studio A, where their greatest hits were recorded, then dance with The Temptations! Original costumes, sheet music and rare photographs make the museum one of Detroit’s unique cultural draws. A short walk away, find the engaging hands-on Detroit Science Centre.

Family fun

Tucked between Lakes Huron and Michigan, within sight of Mackinac Bridge, Mackinac Island recalls the Victorian era, when horse-and-buggy or a strong set of legs were the main methods of transportation. Hire a bicycle, hear the Colonial Fort Mackinac story as told by costumed interpreters, then search for Petoskey stones – 350-million-year-old fossilized coral, found only in Michigan. The elegant Grand Hotel, one of Americas prime listed buildings, is the Island’s true icon.

Bavarian-inspired Frankenmuth, just off I-75, is best known for chicken dinners with all the fixings and 320,000sq foot Bronner’s CHRISTmas Wonderland, the world’s largest Christmas store. Looking for bigger thrills? Michigan’s Adventure amusement park in Muskegon is home to 6 coasters, including the critically acclaimed 125ft wooden mega-coaster Shivering Timbers, along with dozens of family orientated rides and games, plus Wildwater Adventure water park.

The Great Outdoors

Summer offers lazy afternoons meandering the Au Sable river in a hired inner tube or fishing the Great Lakes aboard a chartered boat. Winter brings out skiers by the thousands, notably at Boyne Mountain in Boyne Falls and Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville. Snowmobile hire is available throughout northern Michigan, where well-used trails wind through frost-gilded forests.

Sleeping Bear Dunes, 25 miles west of Traverse City, poses a physical challenge of the windswept variety. Climb 300ft to the summit for a rewarding view of Glen Lake before making an exhilarating sprint back down. Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary near Alpena protects a collection of 100 shipwrecks, some in shallow waters convenient to boaters and snorkellers, with deeper wrecks accessible to divers. An easy hike into Upper Michigan’s Tahquamenon Falls State Park takes visitors to the 50ft Upper Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the Midwest. Rugged Isle Royale National Park, in the north-west corner of Lake Superior, attracts serious hikers, kayakers and anglers. Or visit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Munising, where mineral-stained sandstone cliffs and formations create a dramatic landscape; then watch the breathtaking Aurora Borealis light up the winter night sky.

Great Drives

OLD MISSION PENINSULA stretches along the 45^th parallel into Grand Traverse Bay, creating a climate perfect for growing grapes. Some 19 miles long but just three miles wide, the peninsula yields sweeping views of the Bay across vast vineyards. Five wineries, including nationally recognised Chateau Grand Traverse, offer free tastings, so be sure to designate a driver!

Spanning 20 miles along M-119 from Harbor Springs to Cross Village lies an interlocking canopy know as the TUNNEL OF TREES. Surrounding countryside is rich in folklore and the drive’s 45mph speed limit encourages travellers to stop at Thorne Swift Nature Preserve, check out various historical landmarks and feast on the blazing autumnal colours.

Super Shopping

Birch Run, 10 minutes from Frankenmuth, is outlet shopping at its finest, with 150 shops, including Michigan’s only Pottery Barn outlet, Waterford Wedgwood, and numerous designer clothing labels and casual dining options. First-class mall shopping can also be found at Summerset Collection in Troy.

More eclectic is the style of Traverse City’s Downtown and Old Town. Inviting streetside cafes join with one-off boutiques, antique shops and art galleries set against the backdrop of Lake Michigan. Glen Arbor’s Cherry Republic specialises in cherry products, while many northern Michigan towns have thriving galleries selling local artists’ work.

HISTORY LESSON

Detroit’s most famous citizen was HENRY FORD, whose innovative moving assembly line construction of the automobile revolutionised American industry, influencing production practices still in use today.

FORT MACKINAC military outpost was constructed by the British during the Revolutionary War, then relinquished to the Americans in 1796. During the first land engagement of the War of 1812, more than 400 British troops and Native Americans captured the Fort during a surprise attack. After two failed attempts to recapture the Fort, it returned to American hands following the Treaty of Ghent in 1815 and is a living monument to the period to this day.

Aah! Say Spa

Try these Michigan spas for the perfect touch: Mountain Grand Lodge & Spa, Boyne City (near Lake Charlevoix), where the 18,000sq ft Solace Spa features an extensive menu of services inspired by the four seasons of Northern Michigan – www.boyne.com/BoyneMountain; Grand Traverse Resort & Spa, Acme (near Traverse City), which has recently undergone an $11million renovation – www.grandtraverseresort.com; Garland Resort, Lewiston (near Grayling), where the Garland Spa offers the chance to rejuvenate in the largest log lodge east of the Mississippi – www.garlandusa.com; and Soaring Eagle Casino & Resort, Mount Pleasant (north of Lansing), with its full-service spa and four-diamond rated hotel, plus one of the largest casinos in North America – www.soaringeaglecasino.com.

SPORT SPOT

Detroit is home to the state’s top teams for BASEBALL (Detroit Tigers), BASKETBALL (Detroit Pistons), ICE HOCKEY (Detroit Red Wings) and AMERICAN FOOTBALL (Detroit Lions). For tickets, call Ticketmaster on 1866 448 7849 or visit http://www.ticketmaster.com/.

GETTING THERE

Flights from the UK to Detroit include: British Airways (0870 850 9 850, www.britishairways.com) from London Heathrow; Northwest Airlines (08705 074 074, www.nwa.com) from London Gatwick; and KLM (08705 074 074, www.klmuk.com) from Heathrow via Amsterdam

Published RCI Holiday Magazine, July 2007

By Simon and Susan Veness

Bear Lake is an insignificant village on the road to nowhere in particular, and yet it is the heartbeat of Lake Michigan; a community with its finger on the pulse of life in the great outdoors.

For the Great Outdoors (let's capitalise it to give it its full significance) is what Lake Michigan is all about - a vast, unspoiled, healthy slice of yesteryear, with a hefty dollop of the pioneer spirit and lifestyle that carved a tenuous foothold in this immense wilderness in the 19th century.

Lake Michigan itself is an impressive body of water, 118 miles east-west, and 307 miles long; Chicago sits on its south-western shore, from where some 1,660 miles of largely sandy coastline spread out north in an elongated oval, with the state of Michigan to the west and rugged Wisconsin to the east.

It is a serious lake, covering 23,000sq miles (the third largest in the world), and it has given birth to some serious communities on either side; tough, hardy towns and villages that can survive winters where temperatures drop to -30C accompanied by up to 6 feet of snow.

Consequently, once winter gives grudging way to spring, nature goes into overdrive, with trees bursting into leaf seemingly overnight, grass growing at visible speed and the wildlife in a frenzy of active pursuits.

And, at the heart of all this furious outdoor activity, is Bear Lake, Michigan, where around 1,500 hardy souls live year-round – to be joined by many thousands more through the fertile summer months.

They are lured by the wealth of opportunities to go fishing, swimming and boating; enjoy horse-riding, canoeing, golf and long, long walks in the splendid parks and forests; to sample camping, cycling, hunting and river-tubing; and to experience a host of unique opportunities, from native American art to the likes of the Cherry Republic, 'the world's largest tart-cherry growing region.'

Local duo Kathy Prelesnik and Gene Hengesbach moved up and down the Lake Michigan shoreline before settling on Bear Lake, where their self-built house and totemic 'bottle trees' are symbols of the individual, unselfconscious flamboyance of both sides of the Great Lake.

Gene says: "There is very much a connection with the earth here. The area was originally opened up by fur-trappers and then the lumber industry, so there is a real sense of what the bounty and beauty of the earth can offer.

"Obviously many people now come here for the fishing and hunting, but many also move here after coming for a vacation and enjoying what the area has to offer, so it still has that essential tie to the land."

People come to visit the likes of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a glacier-shaped shoreline of huge, precipitous sand dunes, powdery beaches and crystal-clear streams. This national park is the highlight of Michigan’s lake country, with its name taken from an ages-old Native American legend, and it amply rewards the casual wanderer around its miles of hiking trails and coastal paths.

Keep your eyes open and you are likely to spot white-tailed deer, red fox, porcupine, raccoons and chipmunks aplenty; bears are now fairly rare, but, at night, you will hear the coyotes howl, and around the lakes and rivers there are also otters, beavers, spawning salmon and birds of prey like the magnificent bald eagle and red-tailed hawk.

Fishing is the Number One priority, though, and boats are for hire or sale at every turn of even the smallest river. In addition to the Great Lake itself, there are thousands of lesser lakes, all offering the chance to cast a lure for steelhead trout, perch, whitefish, walleye, bass and the vast profusion of coho and chinook salmon.

The biggest community hereabouts is the rather cosmopolitan (by northern Michigan standards) Traverse City, founded in 1870 and now with around 15,000 modern-day inhabitants, but a summer population that can top 100,000 eager adventure-seekers.

Created by a mixture of Chippewa and Odawa Indians and French traders, it boasts a mix of creative shopping, local wineries, a handful of quaint museums (don't miss the Grand Traverse Heritage Center) and its own beaches.

The local arts and crafts are truly creative, and include some funky art galleries, folk art and fascinating glassware. In fact, this corner of the state has become a prime draw for artists of all kinds, with an edgy, contemporary feel that wouldn't be out of place in Greenwich Village, New York.

Typical among them is intuitive local 'genius' Ed Lantzer, a carpenter-turned artist in Kalkaska (20 miles east of Traverse City), whose stunning 8ft-tall wooden 'mosaics' (a refined form of marquetry) convey a vivid Christian message. "I celebrate Christmas every day with my work," he says.

Travel the region and you should also visit Peshawbestown (home of the Grand Traverse Band of Odawa and Chippewa Indians), the resort town of Harbor Springs, quaint Glen Arbor (in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore) and tiny Thompsonville, where the nearby Crystal Mountain ski resort takes on an almost Alpine ambience in summer.

Cross the lake to the Wisconsin shore (via the ferry from Ludington to Manitowoc) and, if anything, things become even more rustic and rural. The cities of Milwaukee, Madison and Green Bay are the state’s obvious draws, but, once again, it is the outdoor life which is the prime attraction.

Much of it is focused on little Door County, a narrow, 75-mile peninsula that juts out into Lake Michigan like an aged, broken tooth. Here, with 300 miles of pristine shoreline, five outstanding state parks and 10 lighthouses (more than any other county in the US) is the essence of a state that boasts 15,000 inland lakes and 33,000 miles of rivers.

Also known as the America's Dairyland for its vast dairy farms (and huge milk and cheese production), Wisconsin's heritage is a fascinating mix of Native American, Scandinavian and even Swiss cultures. Places such as Milwaukee, Oconomowoc, Manitowoc and Sheboygan are all redolent with Chippewa, Algonquin, Oneida, Potawatomi and Menominee tribal connections.

Famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright - he of the imposing 'organic' style - was born here, and the milkshake was also a Wisconsin 'creation,' dating back to the 1880s and the Horlick brothers who emigrated from Gloucestershire.

But Door County is the microcosm of the 'cheese state's' attractions, with artist colonies, cherry and apple orchards, fishing communities, golf courses and even the Egg Harbor Winery all vying for attention, along with the five state parks, of which Rock Island - once the private estate of a millionaire investor - is the pre-eminent example.

Tour the picturesque fishing villages of Baileys Harbor, Gills Rock and Sister Bay and you will get a true impression of a region almost literally hewn from the wilderness by lumberjacks, farmers and fishermen, and now displaying its history through the likes of the Door County Maritime Museum (Gills Rock), Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant (Sister Bay) and the Moravian Church and Pioneer Schoolhouse (Ephraim).

And, if you need a taste of the more urban, Green Bay is only a short drive from either Manitowoc or Door County, with its Bay Beach Amusement Park, Neville Public Museum, Heritage Hill State Historical Park (for the full 200-year perspective) and National Railroad Museum.

Looking for something different? Head to Manitowoc, where the submarine USS Cobia is an official National Historic Landmark and part of the Wisconsin Maritime Museum, and you can not only tour this World War II vessel but even stay the night!

But, ultimately, a visit to the Lake Michigan region is all about outdoor pursuits and enjoying the more natural rather than man-made attractions.

As Kathy Prelesnik adds: "This is the most pristine area in Michigan, with more native vegetation and undisturbed natural landscape, from spring to fall, than anywhere else in the state. Its beauty and charm speaks for itself. Oh, and the people are pretty cool, too!"

A GRAND DAY OUT

You cannot leave northern Michigan without enjoying a day out on the utterly charming timewarp community of Mackinac Island, a throwback to Victorian times where bicycles and fudge-making are the order of the day, and cars were banned more than 100 years ago!

Take one of the three main ferry services from Mackinaw City (about an hour's drive from Traverse City) and stroll Main Street with its mixture of period inns, fudge shops and gift emporiums; visit the Butterfly Conservatory; climb up to imposing colonial Fort Mackinac (a British outpost until 1815); and then hire a bike and cycle round the 8-mile coast path, where the only obstacles are likely to be the occasional horse-drawn carriage (and the rather erratic pedallings of other part-time cyclists!).

Mackinac Island is also host to a world-renowned annual Lilac Festival, two challenging golf courses, and the iconic Grand Hotel, where you should certainly stop for afternoon tea and discover why it was the setting for the 1980 romance Somewhere In Time, starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour.

A UNIQUE REPUBLIC

Located in the town of Glen Arbor (population 788) is the self-styled Cherry Republic, a truly amazing homage to the humble cherry, with a mind-boggling 170 products all related to this locally-grown fruit.

Take your pick from dried, candied or chocolate-covered; pies, jams, jellies, salsa, pastries, sauces, toppings, sodas and juices; ice cream, wines, bath products and more, all with the unique tart cherry flavour in this rustic outpost.

The 'Republic' is made up of their Great Hall (the main emporium, offering multiple tastings of their various products); the Cherry Bakery and Café (where you can enjoy a hearty lunch or tea from their menu of fresh-baked goods); and the Winery, with a surprisingly appetising range of still and sparkling wines.

The brave will want to try their Cherry Chili and Cherry Hot Dogs or the homemade cherry bread, while the cherry smoothie and 12 different flavours of ice cream are a sheer delight. And don't leave without banging the Boomchunka Drum to mark your visit!

THE LEGEND OF SLEEPING BEAR DUNES

The amazing landscape of Sleeping Bear Dunes took its name from an Ojibway native American legend about its formation.

According to the Ojibway story, a mother bear and her two cubs were driven by forest fires from the shores of what is now Wisconsin and forced to swim the width of Lake Michigan to safety. When the mother bear reached the Michigan shore, she turned to discover that her cubs had not made the long swim.

The Great Spirit was so touched by her plight that he had her fall off to sleep there and then, creating Sleeping Bear Dune, and marked the place where her cubs disappeared by creating the two small Manitou Islands.

RIVER-TUBE FUN

Michigan and Wisconsin have several things in common, not least the lake and river-strewn topography, which make it a haven for watery pursuits of all kinds.

One popular and widespread summer-time activity is that of river-tubing, and you will often see signs for 'Tube hire' at many riverbank locations.

Stop and give it a try and you will quickly find yourself floating off downstream in a giant rubber inner-tube, mingling with other tubers, canoes and kayaks as you meander gently along with the current.

At an appointed spot, you will paddle your way to the bank and await pick-up by your tube-rent company, often with a pleasant walk to finish things off (waterproof bags provided, and waterproof footwear advisable!).

River-tubing is also a throwback to the area's formative years, when the huge turn-of-the-century lumber industry used the local waterways to float masses of timber out that ultimately went to feed the great lumber yards of Chicago, Detroit and Cleveland around the Great Lakes.

Simon and Susan Veness are an Anglo-American travel-writing team who are based alternately in Michigan and Florida. Simon is the founder of the Brit's Guide travel series while Susan is a Brit's Guide co-author and a native Michigander.

Published: February 24, 2007

Florida's Greek Connection

By Simon and Susan Veness

When the barman served up our drinks with a cheery “Yamas!” we knew we weren’t in Florida any more. The fact is, we had crossed over into the Greek ‘republic’ of Tarpon Springs.

Strictly speaking, this small fishing village on the Gulf Coast is firmly within the confines of the Sunshine State. But its spiritual and emotional home is some 5,000 miles away in the Mediterranean.

More than 50% of the locals speak Greek as their first language and nearly all the bars and restaurants serve ouzo and souvlaki rather than Budweiser and burgers. Even the local market offered us an impromptu wine tasting of Retsina and Samos!

The more we looked, the more the outward signs of Greece and all things Aegean seemed all-pervading: we shopped at Zorba’s and the Halki Market; we sipped a huge array of wines at Katina’s; and we ate enough food – including sensational saganaki, octopus and moussaka – to fill the Parthenon at restaurants like Mama’s and Costa’s.

Then there was the Santorini Grill, the Dodecanese Bakery, the Athens Gift Shop and St Nicholas Boat Lines; all unreservedly Grecian, and all sitting in the Florida sun, just two hours’ drive west of Orlando and its vast empire of theme parks (and only an hour from the equally America city of Tampa).

It was, we were told, the biggest Greek community outside the ‘homeland’, with its own orthodox cathedral, tavernas, architecture and even its own industry, sponge fishing.

And that is where it all began, more than 100 years ago, when the call went out for the necessary expertise to harvest Florida’s bumper undersea crop of this precious commodity. That was also when George Billiris’ family came in.

George was our gracious host for the day, the 79-year-old ‘founding father’ of Tarpon Springs (or rather, the successor to his father’s sponge ‘empire’), and he was quick to explain this wonderful Floridian oddity.

He said: “Alexander the Great made the sponge-fishing industry a great Greek concern, but it only came to the Americas in the 19^th century, in the Bahamas, the Florida Keys, Cuba and Central America.

“When the locals here in Tarpon Springs wanted to develop the huge offshore sponge beds in 1905, they lacked the knowledge for deep-water diving so a recent Greek immigrant by the name of John Corcoris suggested to his boss that he could bring over a couple of divers from Greece.

“Within a few years, they had gone from none to 180 boats and 2500 fishermen and their families. And Tarpon Springs was the Sponge Capital of the World!”

Among the huge influx of Greek immigrants was the Billiris family, and George was practically born into the business in 1920. A real Hemingway character, he took up diving at the age of 14 and was an experienced hand by 17, when he joined the US Navy and served in the Second World War.

Tarpon Springs might have died in 1946 when a huge blight all but wiped out the sponge beds, but George refused to let one freak year dictate the town’s future and almost single-handedly rebuilt the industry through the 1960s and 70s. Just a few months shy of his 80^th birthday, he still works daily in his sponge warehouse on Park Street.

He explained: “We were still getting around 200,000 tourist visitors a year, so we had money coming in, and we were able to invest in new boats and bring more divers over from Greece, which we still do to this day.

“Today, the battle is more Preservation v Development, but we now have 25 restaurants and 125 gift shops to keep people interested and it is a very cheap day out compared with the rest of Florida! We also have something for everyone – great food, shopping, history and fishing. In fact, you can even take a sponge-fishing trip with us.”

The food alone is worth travelling a long way for. Our lunch at Mama’s (a typically indulgent 2-hour affair) featured flaming saganaki cheese, fried kalamari, charbroiled octopus, dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), spanokopita (the heavenly spinach pie), keftedes (meat balls) and oodles of Greek salad, all washed down with ouzo and metaxa; a true Aegean feast.

The quarter-mile stretch of the Sponge Docks is the heart of Tarpon Springs, boasting the full array of restaurants and shops, plus some fabulous bakeries and markets. The local bread and pastries are second to none and, while the original Sponge Exchange has been converted into chic boutiques, the regular sponge auctions are still held here when the fishing boats return from their lengthy spells at sea.

Other highlights include Spongeorama’s Sponge Factory, the Tarpon Springs Winery, the quaint Aquarium (where you can see the sharks fed daily) and George’s other family business, St Nicholas Boat Line, where they offer half-hour trips featuring sponge-diving exhibitions, complete with old-fashioned ‘skafandro’ diving suit and ‘lerios’ helmet.

You also shouldn’t leave Tarpon Springs without visiting the wonderful St Nicholas Cathedral, a scaled-down Byzantine replica of St Sophia’s in Istanbul, and the centre of the biggest Epiphany celebration in the Americas in January every year, drawing more than 60,000 visitors.

Drive around the Spring Bayou area and you will find a wonderful collection of turn-of-the-century mansions from the original sponge boom, while the downtown area boats more shops – including great antiques and art galleries – and restaurants, plus a handful of bed-and-breakfast inns.

The Historic Train Depot gives testament to the town’s importance on the Atlantic Coastline Railroad and Zante Cafeneo is the perfect place to stop for a Greek coffee and pastry (we heartily recommend the baklava!).

But, for those who have been to many of the Mediterranean islands, the very best thing about this amazing Grecian export is the fact that the plumbing all works perfectly! Altogether now…..Yamas!

TARPON SPRINGS FACTFILE

The town of Tarpon Springs – population 20,000 – is on Florida’s west coast, exactly 100 miles from Orlando and 20 miles north of the seaside resort of Clearwater Beach (from where it makes an ideal day-trip). There is no public transport, so a hire car here is essential.

Virgin Holidays offer 14 nights at the Hilton Clearwater Beach Resort, between January 1 and February 7, starting from £699, including scheduled flights on Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick, Manchester or Glasgow to Orlando, 14 nights of room-only accommodation and car hire (based on two adults sharing a room). Prices for under 16s start from £199. To book, call 0871 222 1232 or visit www.virginholidays.co.uk.

10 Great Reasons to Visit Virginia!

Published, RCI Holiday magazine, December 2006

Virginia is one of America’s original 13 colonies, dating back to the 17^th century, and is packed with historical and scenic wonders. The extensive state (430 miles long and 200 miles wide) encompasses great coastline, beaches and wine country, as well as mountains and valleys. Anglo-American travel-writing duo Simon and Susan Veness offer their Top 10 of places to visit and things to do in this fascinating state. Look up more on www.virginia.org.

1) Colonial Williamsburg: the complete restoration of America’s most important historical city – the capital of the early colonies – makes this a time machine journey into the 18^th century. Daily ‘Revolutionary City’ theatrical presentations into the turbulent times of 1776 conjure up riveting ‘live’ history.

(Williamsburg is midway between Richmond and Norfolk on motorway I-64; look up www.colonialwilliamsburg.com or call 757 229 1000)

2) Jamestown: also in Virginia’s Historic Triangle, with Williamsburg and Yorktown, this is another period piece of the first British settlement in 1607. It is both an archaeological site (Historic Jamestowne) and a brilliant recreation of the settlement, with museum, costumed guides and Indian ‘village’ (Jamestown Settlement).
(Jamestown is on the scenic Colonial Parkway just south of Williamsburg; look up www.historicjamestowne.org and www.historyisfun.org or call 757 253 4838)

3) Shenandoah Valley: the 200-mile valley in northern Virginia formed by the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains is home to the Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway scenic drives, national parks and Civil War battlefields. Start at the new Museum of the Shenandoah Valley in Winchester for the full overview.
(look up www.visitshenandoah.org or call 1800 847 4878 for general information)

4) Richmond: the only place in America where you can white-water raft through a city, the state capital offers entertainment and excitement aplenty, from horse-racing to museums and smart shopping centres. Its significance as the capital of the Confederacy is another window into local history.
(look up www.visit.richmond.com or call 804 783 7450)

5) Busch Gardens Williamsburg: this is one of America’s top theme parks, with everything from kiddie rides to high-adrenalin coasters (including the 205ft Griffon in 2007). Shows, animal attractions and delightful European theming complete the pleasant picture here.
(Address: One Busch Gardens Blvd, Williamsburg, Virginia 23187-8785; call 1800 343 7946 or look up www.buschgardens.com/bgw)

6) Luray Caverns: even if you don’t tour Shenandoah in full, you should visit its top scenic treasure. The one-hour guided tour reveals underground caverns more than 10 storeys high, amazing rock formations – and the world’s only Stalacpipe organ!
(Address: 970 US Highway 211 West, Luray, Virginia 22835; call 540 740 6551 or look up www.luraycaverns.com)

7) Yorktown: the Yorktown Victory Center marks the decisive campaign of the American Revolutionary War. Here you can learn the full history of the struggle for independence and tour the climactic battlefield from 1781.
(Address: 224 Ballard St, Yorktown, Virginia, 23187-1607; call 757 890 3300 or look up www.historyisfun.org/yorktown/yorktown.cfm)

8) Mariners’ Museum: one of the world’s great maritime museums is in the city of Newport News. Full of elaborate artifacts, extensive galleries and traveling exhibitions, it will also boast the unique USS Monitor Center in 2007, a vivid recreation of the first ironclad battleship.
(Address: 100 Museum Drive, Newport News, Virginia 23606; call 757 596 2222 or look up www.mariner.org).

9) Wine Country: Virginia boasts some 100 wineries, several of which have won international awards. They are spread throughout the state but are most plentiful in the central plain and north. Cabernet Sauvignon is their top product but Norton is a Virginia speciality.(Look up more at www.virginiawines.org).

10) Home of Presidents: the presidential homes of Mount Vernon and Monticello are another must for culture buffs. The former was george Washington's 8,000-acre estate while Monticello was the plantation residence of Thomas Jefferson. Tour both for a real 18th and 19th century history lesson. (Monticello: 931 Thomas jefferson Parkway, Charlottesville; call 434 984 9822 or look up www.monticello.org. Mount Vernon: 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon, Virginia; ca;; 703 780 2000 or look up www.mountvernon.org)

Mount Dora – Florida’s Secret Gem

By Simon and Susan Veness

Florida magazine, Nov/Dec 2006

Driving into Mount Dora for the first time was a bit like finding a hidden layer of chocolates at the bottom of the box. How could this charming town be virtually unknown in the great tourist honeypot of Central Florida?

That was the question uppermost in our minds as we toured the pretty streets first by car, then on the Historic Trolley tour and finally on foot. To complete the picture, we took the local scenic boat tour on Lake Dora and through the wildlife-rich Dora Canal.

It was genuinely astonishing. Here, virtually in the shadow of Orlando and its pantheon of theme parks, was a little known haven full of fascinating attractions, quaint shops and enticing restaurants. The locals know about it, but that’s about all.

Not that they try to keep it a secret; they are more than happy to deal with stray travelers who wander in for some much-needed r ’n r away from Disney and Co. It’s just that Mount Dora seems to sit in a ‘blind spot’ of the tourist’s eye, neither in the heart of things nor on the way to anywhere in particular. But spend a day here and we are convinced you will enjoy the same things we did – a picturesque destination with enough to amuse everyone, with the possible exception of young children.

Mount Dora also likes a good festival, and lots of them. In fact, you could say this is Festival Central, as there are no less than 16 major annual events which enliven the scene, from spring craft fairs to summer art weekends and Christmas parades, and even Florida’s oldest bicycle event! They attract a crowd, too. Some 250,000 visitors roll in for the Craft Fair in October. We happened to drop by during the Antique Boat Festival and were amazed at how lively and elaborate it was, with stalls of every shape and size and some truly gorgeous wooden boats and other vehicles.

You never know who you might meet, either. Uncle Al’s Time Capsule is a local Mecca for celebrity meet-and-greets, and we had our picture taken with former Bond girl Lana Wood, who still looked every bit as glamorous as her starring role as Plenty O’Toole in Diamonds Are Forever!

Best of Mount Dora

Shopping – Pak Ratz and Village Antique Mall for great antiques; Uncle Al’s Time Capsule for movie memorabilia; William Arthur Gallery for fine arts; Maggie’s Attic for gifts and local wines; A Walk In The Woods for clothing and Crocs shoes; and Mt Dora Winery for a chance to sample some local produce!
Dining – for tea or coffee, stop at Mt Dora Coffee House or Windsor Rose tea-rooms; for fab cakes and pastries, try Sunshine Mountain Bakery; for a leisurely lunch, sample Palm Tree Grille, The Gables or Fifth Avenue Café; for fine dining, Pisces Rising, Beauclaire Dining Room (Lakeside Inn) and The Goblin Market are all musts.
Attractions -- Historic Trolley ride; Blue Heron Cruises; the Lakesdie Inn (even if you don't stay there); Inland Lakes Railway for a range of sight-seeing and evening dinner trains to the nearby towns of Eustis and Tavares; Royellou Museum; Museum of Speed (for American sports car fans).

The fact it is not a tourist destination per se is the town’s real charm, though. It is just a genuine community of 11,000 people who exist quite happily outside the tourism hubbub.

Situated in slightly sleepy Lake County (north-west of Orange County, which is home to Orlando and its multitude of attractions), the ‘Mount’ part of its name refers to the fact it sits at the dizzying height (by Florida standards) of 184ft above sea level and some homes even have (gasp!) basements, highly notable in a swampy state where little can be built below ground. It dates back to 1864 and was a far more prominent place in the early 20th century, with a major stop on the Florida railroad, a thriving citrus industry and the holiday choice of, among others, Thomas Edison, Henry Ford and Presidents Dwight D Eisenhower and Calvin Coolidge.

It was incorporated as a city in 1910 (which it remains, officially, to this day) but the dwindling of citrus farming in the 1950s and the growth of road traffic over the railways effectively returned it to more backwater status. So, modern visitors are not greeted by neon signs, non-stop attractions, ranks of motels and tacky gift shops; there are no armies of holiday-makers determined to ‘do it all;’ and you will not run into traffic jams (unless you arrive during a festival, when many roads are closed off). Your best bet is simply to park up and leave the car for the day or, better still, head to the old world charm of the Lakeside Inn, which has been graciously greeting guests in best Southern style since 1883. So, modern visitors are not greeted by neon signs, non-stop attractions, ranks of motels and tacky gift shops; there are no armies of holiday-makers determined to ‘do it all;’ and you will not run into traffic jams (unless you arrive during a festival, when many roads are closed off). Your best bet is simply to park up and leave the car for the day or, better still, head to the old world charm of the Lakeside Inn, which has been graciously greeting guests in best Southern style since 1883. Use this as a base for a short stay and you will revel in its period style, romantic reverie overlooking Lake Dora – and fabulous cuisine in either the turn-of-the-century Beauclaire Dining Room or Gatsby era Tremain’s Lounge.

When to Visit

Mount Dora is renowned as Festival City, and there are many weekends worth noting:
Oct 13-15 2006: 32^nd annual bicycle festival – thousands line up for a range of events.
Oct 28-29: Craft fair – national festival with up to 350 of best crafters in America.
Nov 4-5: Annual plant and garden fair – featuring orchids, native and rare tropical plants.
Nov 18-19 (and third weekend in Jan and Feb): Renninger’s antique extravaganza – one of the largest antique gatherings in south-east US, with more than 1500 dealers.
Nov 26: Light up Mount Dora – annual switch on of the 2 million Xmas lights.
Dec 2: Christmas Parade and Boat Parade – on land and lake at 1pm and 7pm.
Feb 3-4, 2007: 31st annual arts festival – nationally-ranked event attracts international artists.
Feb 23-25: Mount Dora music festival – jazz, classical and big band style.
Mar 23-25: Antique boat festival – more than 150 classic and historic boats.
Mar 31-Apr 1: Sailboat regatta – the oldest sailing regatta in Florida.
May 6: Taste of Mount Dora – an evening touring Mt Dora’s best restaurants (tickets $30 in advance).
July 4: Old-fashioned Fourth of July celebration – food, fun and fireworks!
Aug 17-19: Art car weekend – annual art creations from the Wacky Car Club.

From here you can also take the one-hour Historic Trolley ride to get the full overview of Mount Dora and its people – including the resident ghost! Call in at the Chamber of Commerce on Alexander Street for a local map and other information to help get around. The Trolley will stop and allow you to visit other notable landmarks, like the Royellou Museum, the former jail which now serves as a (free) centre for local history and fascinating facts. Among other things, you will learn the town was originally called Royellou after the three children – Roy, Ella and Louis – of the original postmaster!

Once you have the lay of the land, head out on foot and wander the streets for some original shopping (antiques, arts, crafts, local wines and other collectables), stopping for some refreshment at a mouth-watering array of bars, cafes and tea rooms. We find it hard to resist the downhome Florida style of Al E Gator’s pub and the eclectic Frosty Mug, which is probably the only Icelandic bar in the state, but you can’t go far wrong here. The one other essential item is a trip with Blue Heron Cruises (from the boat dock at the Lakeside Inn), where their two-hour tours up to three times a day provide a fascinating view of the many waterways and their wildlife – from river otters to turtles and great blue herons as well as the inevitable alligators.

Blue Heron offer a variety of outings along the Harris chain of lakes, including lunch and sunset cruises, but make sure you are back in Mount Dora before the sun goes down and head for dinner at Pisces Rising. Owners Ann and Ron Winters tried to retire here from the Florida Keys but found a long-subdued desire to become restaurateurs was impossible to ignore once they had settled in town. With the Keys being a magnet for sunset celebrations, the Winters’ bought the 1920s building for their pet project with that in mind, and its spectacular location overlooking Lake Dora is ideal for a picture-perfect end to every day – with their seafood-based menu every bit as good as the view.

If nothing else, yo